YES, it is one of the best choices. EPOXY ART epoxy is compatible with both water-based and electric underfloor heating.

Reality: Unlike vinyl with underlay or wood, epoxy does not insulate heat. It is directly bonded to the screed, so the heat goes immediately into the room. You will save on heating.

⚠️ Essential rule: The heating must be turned off 24 hours before application and during the entire curing period (about 7 days). If turned on earlier, the floor will crack. After curing, the temperature must be increased gradually (by 5 °C per day), not "fully" on the first day.

The final layer of epoxy is very thin, usually around 1.5 mm. Since epoxy serves as a final surface, not as a leveling screed, it places high demands on the quality of the substrate.

Substrate condition: The surface must be perfectly prepared before application – free of cracks, holes, grease, or loose particles.

Flatness: If the substrate is uneven or has depressions, we recommend leveling it first with a suitable self-leveling compound.

Risks if neglected: Applying epoxy on an untreated or uneven surface may cause air bubbles, cracks, or unattractive replication of irregularities (epoxy will flow into the lowest point).

No glossy floor in the world is completely scratch-proof, but we have a solution for you. Every system comes with a final topcoat that works like a protective glass on a phone.

Protective shield: This topcoat creates an invisible layer that protects the actual floor design.

Reality in use: Glossy surfaces are naturally prone to micro-scratches (fine lines from dust, sand, or claws). However, if you follow regular maintenance and don't drag heavy objects across the floor, it will maintain its appearance.

Easy renewal: A huge advantage is that if the topcoat wears down over the years, you don't need a new floor. Simply lightly sand the surface and apply a new layer of topcoat – the floor will look like new again.

It is more durable than tile. While a tile would crack or chip, epoxy is more flexible and absorbs the impact. A small dent may occur, but the floor will not crack as a whole. If it happens, the spot can be sanded and recoated.

With proper application and use of the protective topcoat, the floor will last for decades. If the surface wears over the years, you only need to sand and reapply the topcoat. You don't have to redo the entire floor.

YES AND NO, it's up to you – there are two options: you can either pour a leveling compound over the tiles or remove them. 

Yes, it matters. All cracks and holes must be filled before pouring with our epoxy filler or by using a leveling compound. If you don't, air will escape from the holes and create bubbles in your smooth floor.

1. I'm an amateur – can I really do it? Definitely yes! Our systems are designed for DIY installation. If you follow the instructions and use the exact mixing ratio, the result will be worth it.

Teamwork: We recommend working with at least two people. One mixes, the other spreads – it's much easier to handle manually.

Race against time: After mixing components A and B, you have about 30–45 minutes to work with the material.

Important tip: Don't mix all the material at once. Work in smaller batches. If you mix everything and aren't fast enough, the material in the bucket will "burn" (cure prematurely due to the chemical reaction) and you won't be able to use it.

Yes, and that's the best part. The metallic pigments "have a life of their own." You just guide them with roller strokes. Every floor is unique – you can't mess it up.

Smooth epoxy, when wet, is as slippery as any smooth tile.

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